Day 2: Spring Breeze Shawl Knit Along

Spring Breeze KAL Day 2

Welcome back to Day 2 and the conclusion of Spring Breeze Knitalong.

By the end of this session you will have:

  • Made a stitch from the knit side
  • Made a stitch from the purl side
  • Created an eyelet row
  • Mastered the picot cast-off
  • Blocked if desired

Then our Spring Breeze is ready to wear and be admired!

If you've had a chance to work to the end of Day 1 and are the end of Band 5, great! If not, no worries, we've created our KALS with the ability to access them whenever you want.  They are always available on our Blog page so you can catch up or refer back to that special technique anytime! Our philosophy is "No Fear" and "No Pressure" knitting. If you're ever stuck or need a little extra help or encouragement, I'm no more than an e-mail (Ravelry and NobleKnits) or phone call away.

So with that said, if you're ready, I'm ready! Let's get started.

Curving the Wingspan and the M1 (Make One Increase)

Well, typically with a top down triangular shawl you don't run into the issue of a shorter than desired wingspan and have plenty of length to wrap. Spring Breeze is intentionally designedscaled down in size for warmer weather wear, so how do we create the appropriate width.  Easy! Add an extra stitch on the right side rows. Adding this extra stitch at each end will, as well as lengthening the wingspan, also create a modified crescent shape that will curve around your neck and shoulders without adding the extra bulk at the neck.

Why use a M1 (Make One Increase)?

So far our increases have been made by yarnovers but we won't want to throw in extra yarnovers just anywhere, so here is what we'll do. We'll be making a stitch on the right side rows. The type of increase we'll be using is a M1 (Make One). This is probably my favorite increase and it's a basic. It's easy to do and guess what? It's invisible. 

We are now on Band 6 Stockinette and we're going to start Row 1. This is where our first M1 shows up. Follow the Row 1 instructions  up to the M1 and follow along with the text and images below. 

M1 on the Knit Side

1.  Locate the bar between the stitch you just completed and the next stitch. 

Horizontal bar between the stitches

2.  Insert the tip of the left hand needle under the bar, from front to back and lift the bar.

Insert needle under the bar from front to back

3.  Knit the stitch through the back loop.

Knit the stitch through the back loop

Knitting Doctor Tip: When using the M1 increase technique, always knit the loop through the back to twist the stitch. If you forget and knit it through the front you actually make a small eyelet. Pretty, but this time, not what we want!

Let's finish up the row, remembering the M1 at the specified point before the last marker too. 

Got it? Good then you're ready to complete the remainder of the rows under this band.

Completed the rows? Let's move on then to the pattern section.

Reverse Stockinette Band 6

M1 on the Purl Side

Since we've reversed direction again to create our welt we will also need to reverse our method of M1 (Make One). This time we'll be making our stitch as a purl. Follow along with the steps and images below. Just like the M1 knitwise, the purl is just as easy!

1. Locate the bar between the stitch you just completed and the next stitch.

Horizontal bar between the stitches

2. Insert the tip of the left hand needle under the bar, from back to front and lift the bar.

Insert needle under the bar from back to front

3.  Purl the stitch through the front loop to twist the stitch.

Purl the stitch through the front loop

Knitting Doctor Tip: When using the M1 increase technique to make a purl stitch, always purl the loop through the front to twist the stitch.

Have you worked through all the rows on the Reverse Stockinette? Then we're coming down the home stretch.

Working the Eyelet Band

Referring to the pattern complete rows 1 thru 4. They're easy rows and you've done them before, so let's work the row!

The yarnovers are made just as you made them on each right side row, so this should be like rolling off a log. Take a look at the image below to see what my eyelet row looks like.  You'll see each yarnover stitch slants toward the left.

Knitting Doctor Tip: If you want to know if you are on-track with your yarnovers and knit two togethers, look for the slanted stitches. These slanted stitches should have vertical (or regular) stitches on either side of them.

Easy, yes? Then it's all downhill from here. Go ahead and finish up those eyelet band rows and get ready for my favorite bind-off!

Picot Bind-off

This is a beautifully delicate edging that is surprisingly easy to complete.  It does take a little longer than the standard bind-off, but when you're done I think you'll agree its well worth the effort!

How to Knit a Picot Bind-off

1.  Cast on 2 stitches using the knitted cast-on (this is the cast-on we used at the very beginning).

2.  Bind-off 4 stitches.

3.  Place the single stitch from the right hand needle back onto the left needle and repeat 1 and 2.

Almost done! Keep at it and this is what you'll get!

Congratulations! I think we've done well! Spring Breeze is now ready to wear but I do want to show you one more option.

Knit Blocking 

Block if you must. I like Spring Breeze with it's little curvy top, but just in case you don't you can lightly block this project, straighten the top and make it wider and deeper.

You'll want to maintain a bit of the welts though, so let's use the modified wet block for this project. I use this modified method rather than fully immersing and soaking my piece because it will give you a little more control and not flatten the welts. It's also very easy to accomplish.

What You'll Need:

  1. Blocking board or thick absorbent towel
  2. T-pins or dressmaker pins
  3. Tape measure
  4. Non-rinse wool wash
  5. Spray bottle

How to Block a Finished Project

  1. Find a flat surface and lay out a thick absorbent towel or blocking boards.
  2. Fill the spray bottle with a bit of no-rinse wool wash  (I do very much like SOAK).
  3. Lay your piece on this surface and starting at the top center and work outward pinning in place, spritzing to dampen as you go.
  4. After pinning, check the measurement of the wingspan on either side of the center point to make sure they are even.
  5. Allow to dry thoroughly.

Here's an image of how the eyelet row central stitch looks when blocked.

We are now at the end of our journey. It's truly been my pleasure to be your coach and your guide. I hope you have enjoyed Spring Breeze and learned a thing or two along the way.

Please don't forget to post a photo of your project on our Ravelry group page and share your thoughts!

Until next time, Happy Knitting!