Slow Curve Knit Along: Day 1
Slow Curve Collar: Day 1 KAL
Welcome to Rachel’s Slow Curve Collar KAL. I'm so happy to have you join the fun! It's not too late to knit with us! Click here for the KAL Materials List.
Follow along with each day’s session here on the NobleKnits Blog and post your comments. You can also join this KAL group on Ravelry and be part of the conversation, meet and interact with your fellow knitters. If you miss a day’s session you can review it later here on the blog and may also be printed.
By now you have gathered your materials, chosen a fabulous shade of Poems Chunky yarn, and are ready to go. Let's get started and we'll help you through all of the tricky spots!
Referring to the Slow Curve pattern, we'll cast on the required number of stitches using a Cable Cast On. This is an elastic cast on which is nice and firm and also gives gives you a pretty braided edge. It’s easy and one of my favorites.
How-To Cable Cast On
Begin by making the usual slip knot (leaving enough of a tail to weave in later) and cast on one more stitch using any cast on method.
Insert the tip of the right hand needle between your slip knot stitch and your first cast on stitch.
Wrap the working yarn between the needles (as if to knit)
Draw out a loop between these 2 stitches and place it back on the left hand needle.
Drawing your loop between the last 2 stitches on the needle, as pictured above, until you have cast on the required number of stitches.
Knitting Doctor Tip: The secret to this cast on is to do it a little loosely so your first row moves easily off the needles.
Now, take a look at your cast on as it grows? Can you see the braided edge showing up yet? When you have several stitches cast on your edge will look very much like this.
You’ll notice as you cast on each stitch your last stitch sits at an angle. This is exactly how it should look and this angle is what creates the braid.
How-to Bottom Border
Before you start the bottom border, you’ll want to count your stitches and make sure you have the correct number of cast on stitches as stated in the pattern.
I’m using color "Embers" this time. My first row was sort of a marled rust and grey, but now I’m watching a change over to a true red. That’s part of the fun of this project, just watching the colors show up!
Now we’re ready to begin the body of the collar. Have 2 of the stitch markers ready. If you are following along with your pattern we are getting ready to work the actual body. That’s where we will be doing the rib set-up.
Start out by knitting the first 4 stitches and place your 1st marker. As we work across this row we will place a 2nd marker before the last 4 end stitches. Adding these markers will be your reminder that you will knit these first 4 and last 4 stitches on each and every row.
Following your pattern, we are now on “Body Row 1” and beginning the rib set up. You have knit your 1st 4 stitches and placed your marker, purl the next 2 stitches, then repeat between the * ( i.e. k2, p2) until you get to the last 4 stitches (you should be ending with p2). Place your 2nd marker, knit your last 4 stitches and smile! You have just built the collar foundation.
By now you may be wondering if this is right after my garter stitch border I’m starting with a p2? Isn’t that typically the wrong side when ribbing? Yes, you’re right, but the Slow Curve Collar is far more interesting on the wrong side, so that is how it is created and worn!
How-to Work Body Rib
Refer to section “Body Row 2” on your pattern.
Knit first 4 stitches, slip marker and now you will do the reverse of Body Row 1, so it will be knit the next 2 stitches, then repeat between the * (ie. p2, k2) until you get to the last 4 stitches, slip last marker and knit 4 border stitches.
Essentially, what you are doing in the rib portion is knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches. As you work the subsequent rows you’ll be able to readily see which are the knits and which are the purls and your ribs will become very well defined.
“Body Row 3” on your pattern. Knit your first 4 as usual, slipping the marker p2, then repeat between * (i.e. k2, p2) to the last 4 stitches, slip marker and finish 4 border stitches in the knit stitch.
Body Rows 2 and 3 will be repeated 2 more times (Rows 4 - 7 in your pattern)
Knitting Doctor Tip: Very few knitters have the luxury of uninterrupted knitting, so if you put your work down only to return later to have no idea what row you’re on, here’s a hint.
Each two rows will measure about 1/4" (measuring from the end of the garter bottom border to right below the needle). Then look at what stitch you are starting with after the marker….. so, if I am at about 1/4" and my first set of stitches after the marker are going to be purls, then I know I’m on Row 3. Make any sense? Take a look at the pic below.
Homework until next time:
Finish up with pattern Row 8, which is: knit 4 border stitches, slip marker, knit 2, repeat between * (i.e. p2, k2) to last 4, slip your marker and knit border stitches.
Your Slow Curve Collar should be growing up nicely and have grown to approximately 2.5" deep and close to 38" wide. It should look something like this:
Hope you had as much fun as I have and your Slow Curve Collar is looking good. Thanks for joining us!